As promised, this is the second post revisiting my summer experience. I spent about 5 weeks in Albania, from July 1 until August 3. There are several reasons why Albania was a great place to visit. I first became interested in the country several years ago when my aunt and uncle lived there. One of the appeals of living in a place like Tirana, Albania to me is the fact that so few people I know have ever been there. Though my heart will always belong to Paris, I love adventure and being able to travel to less-discovered places. The Balkans have become more of a tourist destination, and of course the former Yugoslavian countries are more known globally these days because of the war in the 90s. Albania, however, largely remains an unknown, though that is bound to change soon. You may recall that Albania was featured in the 1997 film Wag the Dog, in which a spin doctor creates a fictional war with Albania through the TV news, in order to cover up an American president’s sex scandal. A memorable exchange from that film essentially goes, “Why Albania?” “Why not? … What do you know about them?” “Nothing.” Albania has come a long way since 1997, however, and more and more people know at least something about Albania.

One marker of this change in Albanian’s recent memory is the visit by George W. Bush in Fushe Kruja in 2007. This was the first visit to Albania by an American president, and they welcomed him with open arms, full of optimism–without any irony. Bush’s visit was recently memorialized in a statue of him, as seen here. I found this sort of optimism and enthusiasm for Americans during my own stay in Albania, and it is definitely one reason to think about going there as a tourist. People were very friendly, and more than once offered to buy me a cup of coffee so they could simply practice their English conversational skills with me.

The last reason that Albania is on its way to gaining greater awareness is that it truly is a fabulous tourist destination. Long closed off from the world, Albania often attracts new tourists simply for their curiosity. For example, I met a French man in Tirana who had traveled to Albania simply because he was curious to finally see this country he knew so little about and that had previously been a forbidden destination. I also met a group of Dutch guys about my age who were there for a weekend, and stated their main reason for going there was that it was the only country in Europe they had not yet visited. However, the realization that Albania has a lot to offer other than just its novelty is beginning to sink in. This past year, Albania and its Riviera was featured as a travel destination by the New York Times’ Frugal Traveler blog and Albania was number one on Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Countries for 2011. In addition to its recognition from travel writers, Albania also has a small but emerging tour group market. Juicy Tours is a new English-language tour agency in Albania that I can personally recommend (more on that later), and is surely a sign that tourism will one day be booming. What does Albania have to offer a tourist? It is amazingly cheap, for both food and accommodations, though the accommodations are not always superb. However, you can find plenty of adequate and well-equipped hotel rooms or guest houses, and the upside to this aspect of the country is the fact that it is not yet over-touristy, so there are really no big resorts to speak of. This makes it very appealing to the more adventurous sort like myself. Finally, Albania has really high mountains and gorgeous beaches with crystal clear turquoise water. Add the friendly people to its amazing landscape, and it is no wonder people are finally taking note of this amazing country.

To recap my amazing trip to Albania, I will leave you with a list of highs and lows. The lows really aren’t that bad–they are more of my list of regrets and also of things you should know before you go there (and you MUST go there) so you can manage your expectations.


Visiting Himare and the Southern beaches, including the atmospheric (and slightly frightening) drives through the Llogora Pass. This would not have been possible without the help of Gail from the aforementioned Juicy Tours. I can’t thank her enough for her help! I contacted her and she was able to work with me to find a way to get me down to the southern beaches without having to pay for a private tour. I was living in Tirana on a fellowship and did not want to spend tons of money, but the really cheap way to travel south was a little too adventurous for me to be willing to do solo (see the lows for more about this). Albania is one of those places where if you prefer the predictable, you could still have some adventuresome fun if you booked a tour with Juicy. They have a lot of knowledge about Albania–one of the two owners is Albanian–and you have the best of both worlds with one guide being a native English speaker and the other a native Albanian.

Dhermi Beach

Some great food: byrek (pastries filled with cheese or sometimes tomatoes) that often cost around 25-50 cents! Delicious Greek salads–they seem to be an Albanian specialty. Seafood, especially fish, down by the coast is always fresh and simply but expertly prepared as well.

This is a tomato byrek I ate on my last day in Tirana. Most of the byrek I got in Tirana were square or triangular in shape, but this one was a spiral.

I got to see the final Harry Potter film in 3-D for the equivalent of $5 U.S. This would have cost at least triple that here in Atlanta!

The beautiful drive through the northern mountains on the road to Kosovo, and the chance to visit my aunt who had just moved to Pristina. This was mostly a matter of good timing, but it really was great to be in a neighboring country to a relative and actually get to visit.

The ubiquitous bunkers–they are like nothing else you have ever seen before. Of course, they are part of the sad and paranoid history of the dictator Enver Hoxha. A friend in Tirana told me when he was growing up, they were literally taught in school that there were always Americans just on the other side of the mountains who were waiting for the chance to attack Albania. Despite their connection to this troubled past, I still really found the bunkers appealing, maybe because they almost look like sprouted mushrooms growing up out of the landscape.

Bunkers at Palais beach, just south of the Llogora Pass

Albanians. I felt very welcome almost everywhere I went in Albania. People were always really helpful, even when they spoke no English. Many people I met who did speak English were happy to spend time talking to me, so I could hear about their lives and they could ask me about America. I really enjoyed being able to talk to so many different people when I was there, as it really led me to get a sense of their lives and their culture. This also includes my unbelievably welcoming colleagues at the human rights NGO where I interned, who went out of their way to do things for me like arrange educational meetings where I could talk with people who they work with in their efforts to combat domestic violence. I got to talk to a chief police inspector of a local municipality, a domestic violence liaison for the police district of Tirana (who was a woman), and several judges at the civil court, where I also got to sit in on a hearing. At all of these meetings, my colleagues also translated, showing how giving they were of their time to ensure I learned as much as I could about the work they did in my short time with them.

Lots of Italian imports are really affordable, I suppose because of the proximity to Italy. I definitely enjoyed some Italian wine in Tirana. Also, the Albanians do Italian food very well.

Last but not least, machiatto. Coffee shops, often just called “bars,” are practically found on every corner in Tirana. Like most of Europe, iced coffee is an unknown in Albania. I generally don’t like to drink hot coffee in the summertime (and July in Albania is hot, though it doesn’t rival Georgia), but their method of drinking a very small machiatto (espresso with a dollop of foamy milk) with a tall glass of ice water is actually quite nice. I became quite hooked on the stuff, probably because coffee is usually at least a thrice daily ritual there. Unfortunately, a machiatto in the U.S. just doesn’t taste the same, but I can’t figure out why.


Travel is difficult in Albania. No, really, it’s difficult. I am used to traveling alone, but even though I knew what Albania was like ahead of time, I don’t think I was really prepared for it. There is no bus station in Tirana, and there are no real timetables. The bus systems are completely mystifying. What I mostly figured out is that there are two types of city-to-city transport, either large touring buses or smaller minibuses that are like large vans. The large buses often have less stops but have to go slower on the often bad roads, while the smaller ones can get around easier but typically stop more frequently. However, this is just a generalization and nothing is predictable with travel there! Figuring out how to get where you want to go is complicated, because depending on where you want to go, you have to find out what street the buses park, because buses for different places are found in all different parts of Tirana. I was lucky in that enough people travel to Pristina that I was easily able to find a travel agency that sold bus tickets in advance for Pristina, and the buses were not hard to find. However, I decided that I was not prepared to use the even less predictable travel methods to visit other parts of Albania. Had I been with a travel companion, I would not have hesitated, but I was really concerned about getting stranded somewhere alone, so I didn’t do as much weekend travel as I had hoped. In short, what I learned from this is that I really want to go back to Albania with a companion and either rent a car or brave the confusing bus network with a partner.

I missed out on seeing Butrint, Gjirokaster, Shkodra and Lake Shkodra, Lake Pogradec, and Saranda (just to name a few!), because of the travel difficulties. These are some places I would really like to visit, and I was disappointed I wasn’t able to visit them.

Tirana is a little boring. No offense to Tirana. I just wasn’t there long enough to develop a true network of friends, and the city itself can be seen in a day or two. After that, there just isn’t much to do there. Fortunately, I was working during the day so that kept me busy, but the evenings could get a little boring. The one highlight of the evening is when everyone magically appears on the street at 6 p.m. and walks around. It happens like clockwork. It’s an old tradition there, but I saw it as confirmation that they didn’t have anything to do either.

Stray animals. I am a huge animal lover, and the stray animals in Tirana really broke my heart. They were some of the most underfed strays I have ever seen, anywhere. The day that was the hardest for me was when I saw a boxer on the street. I grew up with boxers as pets and so this was especially hard. The dog looked terrible, it was horribly skeletal and it appeared to be blind. I fed it some pasta because that was all I had and I didn’t know what else to do. I met a man on the street who told me the dog was his “friend.” I am not sure what that meant, but I told him that the dog needed some more food. He was headed around the back of a building, and he called the dog, who went with him. I never saw the dog again, but I consoled myself by hoping that the man was taking care of it.

Reflections: Part 1

It’s hard to believe I have already been back in the United States for almost 4 months. Coming back home 5 days before starting my most difficult semester of law school was both a blessing and a curse. Having so much to do right away forced me to get over the jet lag quickly because I couldn’t take naps every time I felt a little tired, and I was so busy that any potential reverse culture shock never had time to surface. Instead of my old routines or favorite places seeming out of place or abnormal, they immediately regained their role in my life as the counter to school stress. However, the real purpose of this post and one to follow is to forget about law school finals, and revisit the highlights (and lowlights) of my summer in Europe. In this post, I will focus on my general travels around Europe. In my next post, I will focus on Albania, where I lived for 5.5 weeks.


Lippizaner stallions in Vienna

Our covered arena in Georgia is a far cry from their palatial training indoor arena! Don't tell my princess horse, she will be envious.

Paris! (This will always be on a highlights list for me)

Sarajevo: the East-meets-West atmosphere and the amazing homemade ajvar

Turkish hospitality. Actually, Turkey in general was amazing.

The food in southern France and Italy

Visiting the charming small towns of Polignano a Mare in Italy and Avignon in France

A surprise visit to Rome

The guy in Nice riding a scooter with a cat on his backpack. Probably one of the highlights of my entire life.


Even delicious Turkish food gets old after 10 days of nothing else!

That 250 euro refund for my delay in Rome from Blu Express never happened…

Not enough time in Paris (there is never enough time in Paris during a single visit, as far as I am concerned)


It’s a sad day–this post marks the end of my travel posts about my summer abroad. My last two days in France were spent in Avignon, which was charming and unique. I really loved it there, and can’t wait to visit Provence again. Enjoy the last of the photos!

My first evening in Avignon, the setting sun colored the Pope's Palace golden while a rising moon appeared in the sky overhead.

Here's another view of the palace. Yes, it's huge!

Avignon wasn’t just a great big medieval palace. Other highlights of the town included a lovely garden on cliffs overlooking the Rhone and the refreshing blow of the Mistral, the Provencal wind that makes even summer days cool.

Lots of late summer flowers were in bloom.

The flowers of Provence

Last, these mysterious painted “windows” on several buildings required more than a passing glance. I would love to know who painted them, and if there are any stories to the scenes depicted inside.

Views into the "windows" of Avignon

Who are these people?

And can they see me?

Here’s one more of the Palace, just for good measure.

Under the bright blue Provence sky.

Avignon was a lively and cute town with ample street entertainment. My two favorite musical moments are featured here.

This band attracted a huge crowd in the square outside the Papal Palace, and for good reason. They played a lively rendition of Havah Negilah--It's possible I was the only Jew in the crowd, but the song was a crowdpleaser nonetheless!

This guy just couldn't help himself--he liked the band so much, he had to get out there and dance! It was a little bizarre, but also entertaining.

From their matching outfits to their energetic performance, this band really put on a show. Increasing the odd factor in the audience, a toddler started wandering into the empty space in front of the band and the dancing guy started dancing behind the toddler. I doubt I was alone in thinking the guy was a little weird, and possibly drunk…

The baby never even noticed him!

They would make an awesome wedding or bar/bat mitzvah band!

My other favorite musical moment in Avignon was when I discovered an accordion player in a narrow street surrounded by high rock walls behind the Papal Palace. His music was lovely (think Amélie soundtrack) and two members of his audience spontaneously started dancing in the street. It was magical!

Dancing in the streets of Avignon

I spent my last two nights in Europe in the charming town of Avignon, home of the French Papal Palace, and the famous Pont Saint-Bénezet, the subject of the well-known folk song. The bridge was built in the 1100s and later partially collapsed as a result of river flooding. Now people pay about 10 euros to walk on a “Bridge to Nowhere” (that one is for my Constitutional Law professor!). The Rhône valley is stunningly beautiful, and the partially-collapsed bridge and river are very photogenic.

Sleepy ducks on the river banks.

View of the Rhone from the cliff-top gardens by the Papal Palace.

The beginning of the bridge at the edge of the city walls.

Nice was more fun than I expected. I stayed there for two nights, in a hostel, so I managed to stay out pretty late with some people I met there the second night. The first night was a late night simply because we didn’t arrive until about 1 a.m. After the major fail with BluExpress in Rome, they had some sort of problem once we arrived in Nice that caused us to wait almost an hour for our luggage to come off the plane.  I spent my one full day in Nice eating two amazing meals, enjoying the unbelievable sorbet not once but twice, browsing at the open-air flower and produce market, and visiting the Chagall museum. Nice was gorgeous, though it was cloudy that day so the photos aren’t too spectacular. I heard about so many amazing things to do that are very close to Nice, and it would definitely make a great place to spend a week because it is a good base for day trips. The old city is really lively and absolutely charming. And it was great to be back in a country where I can speak the local language!

The market was quite crowded for a Sunday morning, and I was happy to find most places were open on Sunday--Paris is quite the opposite.

The beach, on the other hand, was not crowded at all on a cool and cloudy day.

I think this might be a statue of Neptune.

One of my favorite experiences in Nice was the Chagall museum. I prefer more modern and contemporary art generally, especially because when viewing art in Europe I find that I get “Jesus art” fatigue pretty quickly. It was really cool to see art from a Jewish perspective that is also beautiful in addition. There were many paintings in the museum that I had never seen before, and I was really impressed with the collection. Out of respect for the other patrons (which I can assure was not reciprocate AT ALL), I refrained from taking photos inside the museum. I did capture this one photo of a mosaic wall on the exterior.

A mosaic fountain at the Chagall museum.

This beautiful church was located in my favorite square in the old city.

I arrived at the airport in Rome for my flight to Nice on BluExpress only to find out that the flight was delayed by 9 hours. As the awesome Canadian couple who were behind me in line pointed out, it seemed like quite a coincidence that an absolutely gorgeous young Italian man was stationed at the entrance to the check-in line in order to inform the passengers on my flight of the delay. He told us that we were going to receive a 250 Euro refund, though about 7 weeks later that refund still hasn’t shown. However, they let us go ahead and check our luggage immediately, and thanks to the encouragement of Ashley and Conrad (the Canadians), I set off with their map in a taxi headed for Rome! It was my first visit, so it was pretty exciting.

I had the taxi driver drop me off at the Coliseum. I was in awe!

The arch near the Coliseum--now I can't remember what it is called.

After taking some photos of the Coliseum and surrounding areas, I walked down the street to some churches to see what I could find. Through sheer luck, I found the Roman Houses exhibit under the Basilica of Santos Giovanni i Paolo. It was really hot, so exploring these excavated houses underneath the Basilica was the perfect activity, and it only cost 4 euros with my student ID! Supposedly some of the houses on this site were the homes of John and Paul.

This is one of the frescoes in the Roman Houses.

After leaving the Roman Houses, I walked back past the Coliseum and down the main boulevard toward the more city-like, less archaelogic (though not really) section of Rome. There were tons of sites to see along this road, and then I finished up my major-sights tour with the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain and the Piazza Navona. I had to save the Vatican and the Spanish Steps for another day, but after spending 5 hours in Rome I was certain that I would be back.

These statues line the street in this area

I loved the winged horses in the fountain.

The Pantheon was closed for mass when I visited, but the doors remained open and I got a good look at (if not a photo of) the interior of the dome.

My feet hurt for days after my whirlwind walking tour of Rome, but it was definitely worth the pain. As my taxi was leaving, I couldn’t believe it when I noticed a statue of Skanderbeg in a piazza! Sadly, my camera wasn’t out and I couldn’t photograph it, but it was funny to come across that connection to Albania so soon after having left. When I arrived at the airport, I found out that our flight was delayed another hour! At least I had good company, because I was able to find Ashley and Conrad and chat with them while we waited.

The crowds around the Trevi Fountain. Some of the nearby streets were wall-to-wall with tourists.


On day two of my stay in Polignano a Mare, I rented a bicycle for 5 hours and rode along the seaside road to the small village of Santo Stefano, location of the historic Abbey Santo Stefano. Along the way, I saw olive groves and trulli, the conical-roofed stone buildings that are traditional in this agricultural region. On the way back from visiting the abbey and eating lunch, I stopped to swim at one of the many coves that provide sea access.

The first view of the Abbey Santo Stefano from the road.

Boats anchored on the beach in front of the Santo Stefano abbey.

Inside the abbey courtyard looking toward the sea.

A trullo in a field overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

The view of Santo Stefano from the olive groves behind it.

After spending quite a bit of time on the Balkan side of the Adriatic–a week in Croatia and later 5 weeks in Albania, it was finally time for my first visit to the heel of the boot! From Durres, I took an overnight ferry to Bari, the main port in the Puglia region of Italy (which is the region that appears to be the heel of the boot on a map of Italy). The overnight ferry was quite a deal: 68 euros and I had not only transportation to Bari, but also a private cabin with a shower for the night. Combine that with the very good prosecco available at the bar for 3 euros per glass, and I was set! Once I reached Bari the next morning, a 30-minute train ride would take me to Polignano a Mare, where I rented a small apartment for 2 nights. This was my “relaxation” phase of my trip home–two nights in a quaint sea-side town in rural Italy. When I finally arrived in Polignano, it was everything I had hoped for! The owner of the apartment met me at the train station and drove me the short distance to the wall of the old city; from there we had to walk with my suitcases because no cars are allowed within the city walls. The apartment was adorable and the old city itself was like a mini version of Dubrovnik. It was gorgeous!

The buildings of Polignano a Mare go right to the edge of the cliffs over the turquoise Adriatic waters.

I cannot rave enough about how wonderful Polignano was! I found an adorable café with a tiny balcony overlooking the water, where I had an amazing, local lunch of burrata verdure (burrata mozarello on a plate with local veggies, including cherry tomatoes, grilled eggplant, rugula, and grilled peppers) and rigatoni al forno with a house-made tomato sauce, accompanied by a local white wine. The owners of the café served me espresso while giving me lots of interesting information about the town and what to do in the area, as well as just providing an interesting conversation about each other’s lives. This was a great start to my stay there, and I found it to be true that everywhere I went while I was there, people were unbelievably friendly and helpful. Another great thing about Polignano was the cute library right at the edge of the city walls that had free wifi access–my apartment didn’t have it, so this was a lifesaver since I needed to finish coordinating the rest of my trip. Finally, the swimming cove right next to the city provided a close, easy spot for spending some time in the refreshing cold water of the sea.

The beach at Polignano a Mare

The same beach, viewed from the bridge behind it.

This cute little stray kitten was sneaking out from under a house. He did not want to be petted!

Buildings in the main piazza of Polignano

My first night, I ate an amazing dinner of local fresh fish at a nearby restaurant. I ended up talking to the Swedish couple next to me, and we we had to move inside during a sudden downpour, we just sat at the same table and continued our conversation. It was a great night, and one of those times that traveling alone feels really good, because it makes you more open to talking to strangers when having someone with you to talk to might have prevented it.

Here are a few photos from my every day life in Tirana. My stay was brief, but I did develop some habits and a routine. Other things I found out too late, like when I discovered a different way to walk to my office that didn’t take me through the outdoor produce market during my last week in town. Of course, I can hardly be found at fault for this, since Tirana’s streets–and lack of street signs–are notoriously confusing. This first photo is a byrektore in the neighborhood, one of the many where I could stop on my way in to work. For the uninitiated, byrek are savory pastries that make really convenient street food. They differ at each place, but the general idea is that it is some kind of flaky or puff pastry with a stuffing, usually in a triangle or square single-serving size. My favorite stuffing was the cheese (think something like a feta), but the tomato ones are also really good.

My favorite Albanian breakfast

An observant person will notice some Italian-era villas in between many of the drab apartment buildings.

This one is just down the street from my office.

And this one is on the secret route to my apartment that I found right before I came home.

The strange, hurried, and haphazard development of the capital city is exemplified by the state of the electrical wires. All you have to do is look up and you can see it all around in many areas.

Tirana is known for its colorfully-painted apartment buildings. A former mayor was also a painter, and he brightened up the post-Communist city by applying paint in interesting patterns to many of the formerly grey buildings.

A colorful building near the river

On my daily walk past the outdoor market, I always passed this guy sitting on this corner. He usually had a crate with just a few very large, very overgrown-looking squashes, and he would start his sales pitch as you walked by. It always ended in a mutter, and I’m pretty sure that even if I understood Albanian his speech would have been a little unintelligible. You can see examples of the squash right above (behind in the 3-D world) the seat of the motorbike in the photo.

Unfortunately, he decided to hold an umbrella for some shade on the day I brought my camera!

One word that aptly describes Tirana is “construction.” This is a city that is constantly updating itself. The main square of the city, surrounded by stately Italian-style buildings, is lovely but a bit unsightly from all the construction–overturned earth and temporary chain link fences invade any view. Still, once you get used to it, it almost seems normal this way. I gave up trying to take a “pretty” photo and just took a photo of what I saw. It was home, after all!

The statue in the square is Skanderbeg--if you ever see him, you can recognize him by his long beard and helmet with a goat's head on top!

This area where the square is located is known as the “Center,” or Qender in Albanian. The Q is pronounced with a “ch” sound, like in “choice.”

The mosque and clock tower in the center are some of the few older structures that remain in Tirana.

See you later, Tirana! My brief time “living” here was definitely a once in a lifetime experience!

Bicycles are a popular form of transportation in Tirana (seen here in the outdoor market).